Matthew Miller AW11

Nothing represents the diversity of menswear design talent quite like the NEWGEN MEN and Fashion East Menswear installations. For the past few seasons this exciting cocktail of new and emerging talent has consistently been one of the real highlights of Menswear Day. This season was no different as the installations conquered the Garden Show Rooms at Somerset House. I excitedly bounced from room to room discovering the latest designs from the likes of Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen, Baartmans & Siegel, Sebastian Tarek and William Richard Green to name but a few. Just when I thought I could take no more and that it just could not get any better, I encountered Matthew Miller's presentation. 

Ever since, he first came to our attention with his standout RCA MA graduate collection which explored notions of masculinity with a somewhat jovial approach to the macabre, we have kept a close on Miller's continued development and rise to prominence. Whilst evolving his signature style in recent seasons he has enjoyed a few highlights, including being labelled by Vogue as one to watch, winning the MacArthur Glen Spirit of Fashion Award and being picked up by Selfridges. For AW11, with the modern man as its focal point, Miller's collection draws its influences from two seemingly opposing ideals, humanism versus naturalism and is influenced by Joseph Beuys, travel in the twenty-first century and a perfect number.

Matthew Miller is a designer who explores the modern world and its impact on masculinity. The working man's role in society has shifted and evolved over the years and here, Miller attempts to reinstate these lost values to suit the time in which we live today. Here, the design talent introduces his revival of masculinity. The collection itself focuses on mixing tradition and practicality at all times. The clothes and accessories are designed to fit the needs and functional demands of the contemporary man. One of the standout pieces are the Duffel coats in melange wool which have had their toggles replaced with M33, industrial strength, Karabiners. The perfect expect of tradition updated. Elsewhere, the accessories were a real talking point. Melange wool was teamed with leather and Marlow rope to create a complete set of adaptable luggage which are designed to attach to or fit inside one another. The prominent Marlow rope inspired digital print t shirts and long johns. At all times there is a marriage of tradition and either practicality or technology...   

Presentation images by me.

Now, the collection itself might be grounded in a neutral palette of greys and oatmeals but there are of course flashes of colour provided by acid yellow and cobalt blue. Last night, Miller sent through his dazzingly bright look book and I'm pleased to be able to share them with you...

Look Book Credits:

Photographer Ian Paul Higginson

Stylist Steve Morriss

Art Direction Rob Meyers

Model Elliott Dillon at M and P models

Shoes by TF Slack

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Matthew Miller's presentation was one of the real highlights of a Menswear Day that was packed to the brim with talent. Despite huge competition for show slots, I would not be at all be surprised to see Matthew Miller graduate to an on schedule showcase. 

James Small AW11 Marching Band

As the schedule at Menswear Day becomes ever more tightly packed with each passing season, competition for a showing space is fast becoming a struggle. James Small narrowly missed out on an on schedule slot but thankfully the show did indeed go albeit without me. In a cramped afternoon schedule that saw me bounce from James Long to E. Tautz to the NEWGEN MEN and Fashion East Installations to Lou Dalton without time to pee. Fortunately, London menswear is more than just one hectic day and think week I was afforded the opportunity to be talked through Small's third collection, Marching Band.

Ever since launching his eponymous label for AW10, James Small has quietly and assuredly introduced his talent to the capital's menswear scene. It is here though, with Marching Band that sees the design talent take a huge strive forward. Taking its inspiration from the ragamuffin regiments  the American Civil War, Small has created a complete wardrobe of military influenced pieces for the man of today. Below we talk to the man himself and learn about the origins of the label, the trials and tribulations of being a designer and take a closer look at the fabric rich collection.

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SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind launching your own label?

James Small: There was a time when I loved working for other people. I can remember that when I was working with Kim (Jones) I declared that I would never want to do it on my own, it felt like it would be too much hassle and stress. However, I left a job that I wasn't particular happy in and couldn't quite find anything quite right for me. Obviously at that time it wasn't the best of economic times so it was tough. Bryan McMahon kept on telling me to do my own thing and I suddenly decided to give it a go. With a help of a few friends, I was able to create my collection and then with the help of Lulu Kennedy I managed to show it on schedule. In a sense, it all happened so quickly and before I knew it, I was doing it.

SS: How have the first twelve months of James Small, the brand, been?

James Small: It is stressful and a learning experience but it is great. I had a game plan and I'm sticking to it. So this season, the goal was to work on production and build on stockists and we've done this.

SS: Now, on to Marching Band. You were influenced by the American Civil War but what was your starting point?

James Small: The initial inspiration came from this really great book that I picked up in Foyles that details reenactments of the Us Civil War. In addition to the imagery, there are some great quotes in the front of it and there was one phrase in particular that captured my imagination, "regiments took on a ragamuffin appearance". I love the idea of them wearing and modifying their civilian clothes for war, for example jackets with plaid shirting fabric stitched on to the elbows. However, as much as I love research and I particularly enjoyed it this season, the key is not to take it too literally, you can't be caught up in it

SS: The collection certainly doesn't feel like fancy dress...

James Small: Exactly. When people hear about the influence of the Civil War, they tend to expect more obvious references within the collection but I didn't want it to feel like costume. There are a couple of pieces in the collection that are directly related to the period, for example the Civil War Bolero, the Cavalry jacket and the Civil War trouser that are just great and haven't been exaggerated at all. However, most of it is just influenced by this ragamuffin mood.

SS: I was instantly struck by the variety of fabrics used within the collection. It has everything from camo to florals to jersey to cord to Harris Tweed...

James Small: The collection uses so many different fabrics, there's even a corduroy cape which I've never seen before. When you are a smaller designer, you can have that bit more luxury in working in fabrics for particular garments and experimenting that bit more. It can be a lot of fun. We used camo and floral in the SS11 film and the reaction to it was great so and it made me a little braver so I wanted to do it again. I love the camo print, we made a pair of shorts for last season and had some left over and I wanted a pair of trousers.

SS: In terms of your design method, do you begin with the fabrics and work from there?

James Small: I consider the fabrics quite late if I'm often. It always begins with sketching and drawing and evolves from there. I'm always doodling. Also, I collect quite a lot of military wear and there might be a particular detail on a jacket that I want to explore. I do enjoy sourcing fabrics but most of the time I have everything worked up in toile form before I start considering them. I do love going in to places on Berwick street for shirting and to Cloth House to see all of them lined up.

SS: You mentioned collecting military garments. How does your collection influence your design?

James Small: I never like to imitate and any influence is much more subtle. It could be a particular detail, for example a hood or in the case of a number of the jackets for this season, a shin guard strap and this is taken from oversized military stuff I've found.

SS: Do you design with a particular man in mind?

James Small: The collection really is a reflection of my wardrobe and my friends wardrobes. I strive to create a rounded wardrobe in each collection. I do love proper trousers, two pleats down the front, a cinch back, trousers that you can wear with braces with a notch in the back and I just love the sailor pant. This season I have used Harris Tweed for three pairs. They are really easy to wear, two buttons down the front and you're away.

SS: Finally, how do you see James Small, the brand, developing over the next few seasons?

James Small: I would love to show on schedule. It is a lovely thing to do, I enjoy the instant response and the fact that people who might not ordinarily see have the the opportunity to do so. It is a treat at the end of the season really. Looking forward, I want to develop the brand, I want to see the collection in department stores and I want the collection itself to grow.

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Now, both the look book and above interview demonstrate James Small's eye for detail and love of fabric but as I spoke through the collection with the designer, I could not help but take a few close up shots...

A selection of close up detail shots.

As well as the admiring glances from the press, you'll be pleased to hear that the collection has led to a few buyers reaching for their cheque books. So the designs will be available next season.

Tim Soar AW11 Him/She

During a day that saw me ricochet from Somerset House to the Royal Opera House and back again multiple times, the opportunity to stand still and admire was greatly appreciated. One such opportunity was afforded by Tim Soar's presentation in the Navy Board Rooms. Here, weary menswear folk gathered with a glass of champagne to gleefully toast the continued rise of the designer whilst admiring his collection of androgyny grounded in menswear.

For the last few seasons Soar has busied himself with examining and reinterpreting the true classics of menswear. Appropriating hits and remixing them to his own tune to much acclaim. He has ultimately produced collections which feel warm and familiar, those which have many overlapping memories and echoes from the past yet, at the same time still feel modern. Thankfully, this is a process that he continues for AW11. However, this time, he offers a carefully crafted concept of a functional wardrobe where many of the styles are available for women. Despite being grounded in menswear, the collection is as much for women as it is for men. Soar has managed to strike a perfect balance between menswear and womenswear or masculine and feminine. Both sexes are happy and well dressed as they nod along to Soar's tune. The focus is on making each piece desirable in its own right, regardless of gender. It was a pleasure to examine them up close as I walked around the presentation of faceless mannequins clad in the designer's signature mix of tailoring and sportswear...

For Him, Soar is interested in the point where tailoring and sportswear meet. The apex of good menswear. Here, he reveals Velcro waistband tuxedo pants, the zip hood duffle coat (a collaboration with noted London tailor, Joe Allen), the neoprene Harrington jacket and the striped, coated cotton dress shirts. Knitwear is either heavy with zips or latex coated. There are tailored ski panes and lacquered wools. However,the real highlight is the topcoat and its mix of heavy melton with bonded cotton sleeves. For She, Soar has kept the masculine mood of the collection. Each piece has started in menswear and delicately evolved. In fact, as I walked through the presentation, many of the style looked almost identical to the equivalent men's garments; the topcoats, jackets, trousers and knits. However, great care has been taken to ensure a fit that is flattering, chic, feminine.

The most obvious thread that tightly bonds this collection is the use of the classic fabrics of menswear which are used throughout. Soar is a long time collector of vintage military and has always loved the density, texture and strength of the wools used in British Army Dress uniforms. When he found out that Hainsworth was the company that produces many of these wold, he just had to work with them. In fact, Hainsworth is a specialist textile company that has been an unrivaled market leader for over two hundred and twenty five years, kitting out the Royal Guards uniform to the plush interiors at Windsor Castle. In choosing a palette of RAF blue-grey, Rifle Green and Khaki, Soar managed to paint a collection that felt simultaneously modern and classic. While, bonded and coated cottons, neoprenes, spun Fuji silk, double crepes and Japanese Plange leather carry on Soar's design signature mix of minimalism, sportswear, tailoring and unusual fabrications.

In light of the packed presentation space I was only able to shoot a few close ups but thankfully, Soar sent through his recently shot look book which I'm pleased to share with you...

Lookbook images supplied by Tim Soar. Styling by Jodie Barnes.

Over the last few seasons, we have come to Tim Soar's collections as offering his take on the greatest hits of menswear. It is not about the exploration of a unique silhouette for the season and then moving on but rather, it concentrates on taking different elements and putting them together in a way that is a coherent whole while exploring a number of different references. In an interview with us last season, he declared that "you don't have to reinvent the wheel, especially not with menswear. The wheel exists, we just have to polish the spokes." Now, women can finally ride Tim Soar's well polished bicycle of menswear.

Menswear Installations AW11: Baartmans and Siegel

For me, nothing represents the diversity of menswear design talent quite like the NEWGEN MEN and Fashion East Menswear installations. I excitedly bounced from room to room in the wings of Somerset House uncovering the beautiful alongside the wonderful and even the unusual, it was discovery at every turn. I did however encounter a few familiar faces and designs. One of the most welcome sights was Baartmans & Siegel's strong presence in a room of much design delight.

Last month I was treated to a full preview of Baartmans & Siegel's AW11 collection, Deckard. Here, the design duo evolved their offering by developing these signatures even further and have introduced new covetable threads such as the interspersion of draped, soft, rounded tailoring amongst the sharp cuts and have experimented with even more tactile fabrications that provoke endless stroking and much luxurious comfort. Functional items that effortlessly combine luxury with a sense of protection throughout. This is performance lux and it was great to see it alongside the likes of Agi & Sam, Marwood and company.

Self described as modern-traditionalists, Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel’s work focuses on beautiful fabrics that seduce, and shapes that are accessible yet distinctive. Once again, fabric is key for AW11. Here the collection predominantly uses a variety of silks, wools, linens and mohairs and I didn't need an excuse to stroke them once again. I certainly won't grow tired of seeing this collection and long to have the odd item hanging in my wardrobe. As previously discussed,  Deckard takes its inspiration from the 1982 science fiction film Blade Runner and the futuristic noir-scape it details. However, rather than an obvious homage to the dystopian urban characters and scenes created by Ridley Scott, the pair looked deeper and picked out key themes to create pieces that are wonderfully subtle yet highly wearable and detail rich.  I was however, struck by the latest look book which sees the pieces take a more editorial edge, echoing the iconic film in the process. With this in mind, I just had to share them with you...

Lookbook Credits

Photography by Amarpaul Kalirai. Styling by Justine Josephs. 

Grooming by Mira Parmar. Model James Cox at AMCK Models.